![]() ![]() This has reconfigured the power to be in series, giving us 3v instead of 1.5v. Solder a wire from the positive terminal on the right to the negative terminal on the left. This will keep them separated and insulated. Run a hot glue line between the two halves of the back board. If so, snip more of the board away from the middle. ![]() Use a meter to see if the two negative terminals are still connected to each other. The wire should be long enough to go nearly to the front of the mouse. Solder a black wire to the right negative terminal. Orient the mouse so the negative battery terminals are facing you. Also, remove the lens from the front board and glue it into its slot on the mouse. Use a dab of hot glue to secure the positive battery terminals. Spin the mouse around so you can look at the front. Ok, it will probably make a few snapping sounds along the way too.įirst thing to do is to fire up the old hot glue gun and get it ready to go. Do not remove the screws, it is handy to keep this part of the board locked in place. The goal is to break the connection between the two negative battery terminals. Snip the back controller board right down the middle, separating the two terminals, and try to take a cm or so out. This is because the batteries are setup to run in parallel and we'll need them in series. The negative side of the battery connectors are attached through the board. They are easily reattached using hot glue. The positive battery connectors may fall off. ![]() You'll need as much room in the front as you can get for the vibrating motor. We only want to hold on to the laser lens and the Omron d2f-c micro-switch. You will probably have to break it off, which is fine. Unscrew the front three screws and pry off the controller board. You will almost certainly separate the ribbon connector from the silver body and cause the mouse to no longer support touch sensitivity. The case is glued together and has snap-together plastic parts as well as a single ribbon connector. Either way, try not to put too many nicks and dents into the mouse. I tried this for a little while and then I took a very small (2mm) flat head screw driver and gently pushed it between the silver bottom and white top. Next, apply pressure with your thumb to either the right or left battery wall of the mouse while using your finger nails to try to pry the silver bottom case and separate it from the pretty white top. The skids will have little black hooks that will get in the way when you put the mouse back together. These skids are glued into place and may take a little work to pry loose. Then remove the two black skids along either side of the battery section. Flip the mouse over and remove the batteries. We will remove the green light, but avoid removing the mouse on/off switch. It is very important to try to keep the mouse looking as normal as possible. Making the prank mouse will ruin a working mouse. Note: Do this with a mouse that is already broken. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |